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Going Home
The following information is meant to assist you in caring for your dog and is provided with my compliments.
The following is a list of items that you should already have at home in preparation for the dog's arrival
- Warm, clean place to sleep
- Hot water bottle
- Supply of dog's current food
- Toys
- Collar and Lead
- A name
Going to a new home can be stressful for a puppy. It will have left its comfortable, secure surroundings (and importantly its littermates) to go out into the big, wide world. Firstly, keep the homecoming calm and relaxed (if you have children, ask them to wait a few days before inviting friends over to see your new dog) and allow the pup time to become familiar with its new surroundings.
Remember, your pup may be restless the first few nights. This is normal and to be expected. Be patient. A warm water bottle works wonders (I've never found the "ticking clock" to be of any use whatsoever.) and a clean, secure place to sleep. In this regard, I've found the purchase of a crate to be exceedingly useful. And it's a terrific tool for house training as Springers are a clean breed and won't soil their surroundings. (Well, at least not for long!) It will also be a useful long term item; i.e. when travelling, visiting the vet, etc. As dogs are pack animals and you are now his pack leader, I would advise letting your new puppy sleep in your bedroom (not on the bed) near you.
Your puppy has been weaned onto Eaglepack puppy food. This is a premium brand dry food that is nutritionally complete. In plain speak, this means that it's more expensive to buy (but not on a per feed basis) than supermarket foods and, very importantly, it's ALL your pup will need. You do not have to add anything, anything at all, to it.
Your pup will have been exposed to various toys and you can certainly introduce him to some more. However, a word of warning: Pups love to chew. Don't introduce him to that old shoe unless you approve of him chewing on those new, designer numbers you just bought! Remember, he doesn't know the difference. Your pup will be used to having something around his neck, however, whatever you buy at this stage as a collar and lead should be light and flexible.
Names? There are a myriad to choose from of course. You may like to utilise a version of his registered name or go for something completely different. The choice is yours.
House Training Top
Like their human baby counterparts, puppies don't have any control over their bladders. When they've gotta go, they've gotta go. "Accidents" are bound to happen. However, you can assist your pup (and this takes some commitment from you, however, it's worth it) in several ways:
- After each meal take him outside to P&P (that's poo and pee)
- First thing in the morning take him outside to P&P
- When he wakes up from naps take him outside to P&P
- Before bedtime, take him outside to P&P
And remember, plenty of praise when he performs his tasks. Also PLEASE remember that scolding won't do one ounce of good UNLESS you catch him in the act. And as for rubbing his nose in it, FORGET IT, your dog doesn't have any idea why you're doing this unacceptable thing to him.
Your puppy will be used to using Puppy Pads which have been impregnated with an attractive scent to encourage puppies to use them for Ping & Ping. I recommended you continue to use them; at least for a little while.
Vaccinations and Worming and Parasites Top
Because of the advances in veterinary science, infectious diseases like distemper and parvo virus have become (relatively) insignificant. Your pup will have had its FIRST vaccination for both. I will provide you with a vaccination card that will indicate the types of shots your pup has had and when the next one is due. But please remember, whilst parvo virus is pretty well controlled, it is not wise to take your puppy out to public places until approximately a week after his/her second vaccination.
Worming is an important aspect of caring for your pup throughout its life. Your pup has already been started on a worming regimen and has been treated at 2, 4, 6 and, just recently, at 8 weeks. The most common worms are hook, whip, roundworm and tapeworm (which is caused by fleas). Additionally, heartworm can be a problem. Nowadays, there are a number of multipurpose products on the market for fleas and worms.
And don't forget those beastly and absolutely no-reason-in-the-world-for-living pests - ticks. If you live in a tick infested area and at the appropriate time of year (Spring to early Summer) invest in a "Preventic" collar; they're not expensive (about $10-11 currently) and will last approximately 8 weeks. They work.
"I'm Hungry, what's for dinner?" Top
Owning a dog is a big responsibility. (I have a vet friend who is of the opinion that everyone should own a dog before they have a child!) Giving your dog the best of care can help improve the quality and length of his life. Feeding your dog a well balanced diet will assist in keeping him healthy.
Puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs - that's why specific (life stage) formulas are developed. Puppies need more energy, more protein; in fact, more of just about everything but in a balanced formula.
I’m also of the belief that the addition of a fresh, raw – absolutely no cooked bones of any sort should be fed to your dog - marrow bone (from your butcher) say once a week is also a good idea and will keep teeth clean. It's also good for your dog mentally!
In addition to a well balanced diet, please ensure that your dog has a plentiful supply of clean, fresh water in a clean, fresh container. Water is the most important nutrient of all.
Grooming Top
Whilst you won't want to be going to the trouble of keeping your pup in a "show" trim (unless of course you intend showing him), regular grooming is essential in order to keep him looking and feeling his best.
Regular grooming also allows the opportunity to check your dog's skin (paying particular attention to ears) and coat. A good weekly brush should keep him in mint condition. I recommend a weekly bath, but if it runs to fortnightly, then that's fine. With regard to ears, always make sure that they're free of any excess discharge (always smell them) and clean only the part you can SEE (that is don't start poking down in the canal) with a cottonwool ball that has been generously dipped in a product such as Leo's Ear Cleaner.
With regard to nails. If the dog is exercised on a hard surface regularly, then your dog's nails will naturally be kept short, however, if the dog is on grass constantly, they may grow. Just keep a watch on them, as too long nails can be uncomfortable. (I have assisted in this area, your pup’s nails will already have been trimmed at least twice, thereby encouraging – or rather, not encouraging – the growth of the “quick”.
Spaying/Neutering Top
If you have purchased a puppy to "show", then he will have been registered with the RNSWCC on their Main register. If you don't wish to show your puppy, it will have been registered with the same organisation but on the Limited Register, which means that the pup cannot be shown or bred from, but it can compete in the rewarding disciplines of obedience, tracking trials and agility.
We will have already discussed the issue of neutering your pup and it would be the expectation of Tholia that your pet puppy be desexed at an appropriate age; i.e. 6 months. Check with your vet when he/she thinks is an appropriate time.
It is absolutely NOT TRUE that female dogs require a litter, or that male dogs will suffer from being desexed. What is true is that there are too many dogs (just go visit the Pound) and more to breeding dogs than meets the eye. What at first, to some, may seem like an easy way to make an extra dollar requires knowledge, experience and commitment.
If you're not convinced, could I recommend a visit to www.bluegrace.com/virtualbreeding.html.
Microchipping Top
I have been microchipping puppies for approximately 10 years. The chip is no larger than a grain of rice and is inserted at the base of the dog's neck. About 3 or so years ago, the NSW Government introduced mandatory permanent identification. Essentially, your pup's microchip will ensure that (if lost), he is found quickly and returned safely to you.
"I'm bored. Let's go for a walk." Top
Exercising with your dog is one of the finest of "chores". It's good for you mentally and physically and the same holds true for your dog. However, go easy. Like a small child, your pup needs gentle exercise accompanied by lots of rest. For the first 3 months or so, backyard play or short walks are all that's needed.
Springers are very adaptable dogs. They like nothing better than to go hunting but will respond to backyard fun just as well. When your dog grows up, a daily walk is recommended, not just for exercise but also to meet and greet people. Call your local Council for details on "leash free" areas, they are dotted around Sydney.
For more information, check out this link:- “Pets Playground”
"I'm bored. I need something to exercise my mind".
a)Training (last, but by no means least) Top
Firstly, I'd like to recommend that you invest in a book entitled "The Dog's Mind" by Bruce Fogle. I guarantee that you will learn extraordinarily useful things from it that will encourage and nurture a wonderful relationship between you and your dog. For example, "dogs are pack animals. They simply don't expect equality." Whilst you may, incorrectly, expect your dog to behave like a human, your dog will expect you to behave like a dog. Your dog's right. However, when exhibiting canine behaviour you must display a leadership role over your dog. He must know his place in the pack. Some important rules follow (extracted from "The Dog's Mind"):
1. Normal dogs can learn at any age up to the time their mental capacities start to deteriorate in old age.
2. Dogs learn best through patience and with suitable rewards. Rewards must be given with or within less than a second of the desired response from the dog.
3. Intermittent rewarding of desired activity produces behaviour that is more resistant to extinction.
4. The value of the reward should be appropriate for the desired behaviour. Dogs value rewards in different ways. Find out what is most valuable to your dog and use rewards appropriately. (Don't underestimate the power of your voice - for punishment or reward.)
5. Learning should be enjoyable. Spend ten minutes two to three times each day if you can. Sessions should be separated by several hours. Tired dogs don't learn easily (same as kids) and mental activity is more tiring for dogs than physical activity.
6. Learning should take place in a quiet environment. Once the correct responses have been made in that environment, you can move to more stimulating environments and repeat the processes.
7. Every dog should be trained to come, sit, stay, down and down stay in that order. If a dog fails a level, don't punish him merely revisit the previous step. Always finish training on a positive note. And remember if you're teaching your dog to (for example) sit, say the word "sit" and wait 10-20 seconds for the dog to respond. If he doesn't, then repeat the word. How often do you hear people shoot off: "Fido, sit, sit, sit, sit, sit". I can just hear the dog thinking: "God, what on earth does he want me to do?"
8. Only use your dog's name to get his attention. Use one word commands in training.
9. Once your dog has learned commands from one person have him learn the same commands from other members of the household. VIP. In this way he learns pack hierarchy, remember he is underneath ALL the humans in his pack.
10. Punishment can be counterproductive. Use it with care. Natural punishments using your voice (as stated earlier) and eyes (in an exaggerated stare) can be effective. And please remember, belated punishment for, say, digging a hole in the garden, never, ever, ever works. It may make you feel better but does nothing to improve that behaviour.
Springers are bright, willing and eager to learn. They are also eager and willing to please. So what better candidate for structured OBEDIENCE training? The "positive reinforcement" method (i.e. food) is currently in vogue with most trainers, however, I believe that the judicious use of a check chain works wonders. Again, remember negative reinforcement; i.e. hitting the dog is a waste of time. Having said that, using your voice and your eyes can be very effective.
The details of some Obedience Clubs dotted around Sydney follow:
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Blacktown Knl & Obed Club
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4736 3291
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Brush Farm Dog Trng Club
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9804 7602
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Deer Bush Dog Trng Club
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9604 6061
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Penrith Knl & Obed Club
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4721 7337
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Eastern Subs Dog Trng Club
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9398 6454
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Sutherland Shire Trng Club
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9542 4003
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Hills Dist Trng Club
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9652 1764
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Western Subs Dog Trng Club
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9787 3591
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Hornsby Dog Trng Club
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9987 4380
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Nthn Subs Dog Trng Club
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9412 1614
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Manly & Dist Trng Club
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9417 4673
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Wollondilly All Breeds K/C
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4677 1655
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Your vet will probably run a Puppy Pre-School and whilst I think they're okay, I believe them to be more of a marketing exercise than "real" training. If you do attend one, there's still lots of work to be done at home however it does provide the opportunity for your puppy to socialise with its peers. VIP.
Remember, above all else
"Have fun with your dog."
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